Dolma Khang on foot in rented old ice boots
Dolma Khang is a mountain in the Rolling Himalayas region of Nepal. The height is 6 thousand 332 meters. Last November, a Bangladeshi mountaineer climbed the Durgam mountain
On October 29, I arrived in Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal by air. After stopping at Kathmandu, we stayed for a day and completed the necessary shopping and preparations. Along with guide Angdu Sherpa, I set out on October 31 at 5:30 am for the main expedition. Our destination that day was a village named Simigaon in Gourishankar Himal range. After two days of ups and downs, we reach Beding village, the base camp of Dolma Khang mountain. Beding is located about 3700 meters above sea level. The main guide Kilu Sherpa joined us both in this village.
From Beding village on November 4 we left for the high camp of Dolma Khang mountain. After tracking for 7 hours, we reached the high camp at 4,900 meters around 3 pm.
The mountain peak at one o’clock
On the same day, I left for the mountain peak at one o’clock. For the first hour or so, the trail is all rugged, over huge boulders. Around 5:30 in the morning we crossed the rocky path and started walking on the ice path. As the sun rises, we reach the high ice wall. The guide said, from here we have to move forward by setting a fixed rope jumper.
After breaking through the ice wall, we came to stand in front of a 60 meter steep rocky wall, the last barrier before reaching the Dolma Khang peak. If you cross it, it’s a five-minute walk to the top. Chief guide Kilu Sherpa has already started climbing the rocky wall. He reached a safe distance and asked me to follow him. Basically climbing such rocky walls requires special rock climbing skills, which I don’t have.
However, I got a lot of confidence from the enthusiasm of the two Sherpas who were with me. I pushed the jumper up on the fixed rope (rope pre-tied to the steep mountain) hanging from the rocky wall and slowly pulled myself up. But I couldn’t do much for the crampons on the ice boots. The sherpa in front was repeatedly instructing me where to put my feet so that I could get up easily.
After rising for 15 minutes, I took a break to drink water. I understood that the brain is excited. 8:30 in the morning. Guide said, another 15 to 20 minutes left. After drinking water, I started walking again with new energy. The ice boots on the feet are not giving any relief in this campaign. I could not buy boots due to lack of budget. I rented an old and heavy ice boot from Thamel’s shop.
After climbing the steep rocky wall we reached a narrow ridge. The summit is just a few minutes walk from here. But that ridge is very narrow. Choosing a safe place, the chief guide said, ‘First take some rest, have hot tea and chocolate.’ After climbing up the steep rocky wall of about 75 degrees, there was no energy left in the body. After resting and eating, I started walking again along the narrow ridge. The desired peak is just a minute away.
I started walking again. The main guide was the first to reach the top and pointed the camera at me. I am moving slowly. Then that Mahendrakashana. I set foot on Dolma Khang peak at 8:20 am Nepal local time. Tears of joy in the eyes. Another guide Wandu Sherpa came behind me. We congratulated each other. Then the photo session went on.
Now it’s time to go down.
A mountain expedition is successful only when you can come down safely. And many accidents happen on the way down after conquering the peak. This is because climbers use up all their energy going up to the top, leaving no energy left to descend.
We started down cautiously. The only obstacle now is the rocky wall. I was able to cross properly under Sherpa’s guidance. The way up which took us more than half an hour, took only 10 minutes to come down. The trail after the rocky wall was the most relaxing trail of the expedition. The Dolma Khang summit consisted of about 400 meters of fixed rope obstacles, 60 meters of which were rock walls. The rest of the way is a steep wall of ice. Such steep ice walls have to be rappelled down. It took an hour and a half to go up, I went down in just 10 minutes.
A little way down, I found a safe place and rested for a while. I also ate the dry food brought with me. Didn’t want to eat anything though. The Sherpas kept insisting to eat. Because, it will take four to five hours to reach our high camp. Need power.
When I arrived at Dolma Khang High Camp tired, exhausted and hungry, it was almost three o’clock. I have no strength left. But I made a tough decision. It was said that after the summit we will spend the night at the high camp. But I decided to come down to Beding village. The guide said that it will take at least five hours to reach Beding from here. I started going down by saving 100% energy in my mind.
When I reached Beding village, it was 8:30 pm. It was great to finally come down safely. After a successful campaign, I returned to Dhaka from Kathmandu on November 9.
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